Mayrhofen is situated half way along the Ziller valley - in the heart of classic glaciated scenery, where Austria meets Italy some 10,000 feet above sea level.
At the head of the valley, the Tux glacier reigns supreme - never giving up its covering of snow and remaining ski/boardable 12 months a year (one of only 2 glaciers in Austria).
A visit to Tux (or Hintertux) is a must for any confident ski/boarder. But the importance of choosing a good weather day cannot be stressed too strongly.
Ignore what the TV/locals say about tomorrow's skies and you are likely to find your day wasted, high winds cause gondolas to close and the strong wind-chill factor can produce temperatures of Minus 15 degrees centigrade....not a lot of fun. But on a good day, the Tux glacier can be a dream….
Catch the free 'GREEN-LINE' ski bus opposite 'Sport Manni' (turn left outside the hotel,down the main street & turn left at the crossroads - 3 minutes walk).
Ask at the Strass reception for the times - generally they're more frequent before 11am.Twenty minutes later,after steadily climbing through the tunnels and hair- raising bends - you'll be, quite literally at the end of the road - the head of the valley.
If you haven't got a glacier pass and you are only planning on spending half-a-day up there, a good tip is to get the 1020 bus which will get you to the kassa/kiosk just as the half day lift passes are issued. Another important tip is to pick up a piste map from the kassa - (the Mayrhofen map covers the Tux area, but not in good enough detail for strangers to the area)
Look out for the clear blue ice to the right of the second gondola...at the top, leave your skis/boards at the Tuxer-Ferner-Haus for a brief walk to the amazing ice cave. Walk inside this enormous Fox's glacier mint and see for yourself that beneath the snow are hundreds of meters of hard packed, smooth - ageless ice.
This is where a prehistoric man was found a few years back - so incredibly well preserved in the ice that they could even tell what he'd eaten for lunch the day he died all those thousands of years ago.
(rumours that it was "wurstle mit brot" are as yet unconfirmed...)
You should take the chair to the far left of the two to the left of the restaurant ( and the one at the top of that one ) and you'll arrive at the top - 3286m/10,843 feet above sea level.
Here you can look around for 360 degrees and all you see are sharp chocolate box peaks - endless ranks of razor sharp summits,as far as the eye can see. To the south are the slightly surreal and dare I say "ugly" shapes of the Dolomites (Italy is only a valley away). This whole area used to be called Sud Tirol ( South Tyrol), before the Italians claimed it following the First World War.
At moments like these you take a lung-full of crisp clean air, tighten your boots and begin your pleasurable decent of this awe-inspiring place...
The two parallel T-bars to the far left are probably the most exhilarating runs here (....unless you like moguls - in which case you'll be ecstaticly sore after experiencing the mogul field here - a living white hell). The length of the T-bars incidentally, is rumoured to be longer by anything up to 5cm/2" a year - proving that this glacier is still very much active!
As this is the case, off-piste activity should only be done with someone who knows this area well - ravines have been known to form here and that's one hole you don't want to get yourself into...
Having said that, the pistes here are relatively safe and certainly adequate enough for all but those extreme souls who aren't content unless they're swishing through three foot of powder and whooping like a Sioux warrior who's just trod on a rake.
Later, following a few jagertees or beers at the Sommerbergalm igloo (yes it really is made out of ice!), you close your eyes - partly out of tiredness and partly to relive your best run of the day - as the ski bus silently winds it's way down the valley, emerging from Finkenberg's little church to be greeted by the twinkling lights of Mayrhofen…….and a long soothing bath - sheer bliss! |